Snow country, slow trains Three weeks on the local lines north — Niigata to Aomori — where the timetables thin out, the carriages empty, and the snow does most of the talking.
Osorezan, the mountain of the dead Sulphur, still water, and a quiet that sits somewhere between peace and unease.
Miyajima on the last ferry How to have the floating shrine almost to yourself, once the day-trippers go.